Monthly Archives: February 2015

Back to Bodega 1900

Bodega 1900, from the astounding Albert Adriá collection of restaurants, is one whose memory grows into the stuff of legend. I was there with my son a year ago and found it to be totally beguiling. One dish, the grilled […]




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A Chat With Paco Mendez of Hoja Santa and Niño Viejo

Paco Mendez, the chef of Albert Adriá’s two new Mexican restaurants in  Barcelona, Hoja Santa and Niño Viejo, sat down with me when I was there,  to discuss how the restaurants came about, some of the challenges and what the […]




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Albert Adriá and Paco Mendez Make Mexican Magic in Barcelona – Part Two – Hoja Santa

“Genius” is one of those words that gets bandied about, perhaps a bit too freely, in many cases diluting its meaning. One definition of the word from The Oxford English Dictionary is,
“A person who is exceptionally intelligent or creative, either generally […]




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Reflections on The Bocuse D’Or 2015

I have now attended each of the past four Bocuse d’Or competitions in Lyon starting in 2009 and each has been special in its own way, filled with hope and promise. This last one was best of all as the […]




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Albert Adriá and Paco Mendez Make Mexican Magic in Barcelona – Part One- Niño Viejo

The magic of Mexican food depends a lot on the indigenous ingredients of Mexico and has, until recently, outside of a few special places in the United States (e.g Rick Bayless’ Topolobampo and Frontera Grill), been extremely difficult to reproduce […]




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