Taste of the Week – February 28th-March 6th: 677 Prime’s Crispy Egg and Pork

When is a steak house not just a steakhouse? I had never gone to Angelo's 677 Prime in Albany because I always figured that it was just a steakhouse, albeit a very good one. I have nothing against steak or steakhouses. A good steak can be an extremely satisfying meal, but I can and do make a pretty decent steak at home (thanks to my CVap and great local grass-fed beef from Mack Brook, Lewis-Wait and Brookside Farms), so I don't typically go out for steak.

This past Wednesday evening, I attended a fascinating and useful forum on Media 2010: How blogs shape the new conversation sponsored by the Albany Times-Union and The College of Saint Rose. The event was over early enough to get dinner afterward and panel moderator and T-U senior writer and food blogger, Steve Barnes, and I decided to go out for a bite. I have very little experience with Albany restaurants, so Steve suggested sitting at the bar at Angelo's 677 Prime. Trusting his judgment, I said sure.

Angelo's 677 Prime is definitely a steakhouse, but owner Angelo Mazzone has given Executive Chef Jaime Ortiz and Chef de Cuisine Steven Kerzner license to be creative. Dinner overall was excellent, but one dish stood out as being particularly extraordinary – "Crispy Egg with Pork Gelatine." A perfectly poached egg covered with crispy chiffonaded strips fuille de brick and laying in a deeply flavorful pork broth, the dish rocked from every angle. The flavors were complementary and the textures of the soft egg, the liquid stock and the crispy strips contrasted marvelously. The dish was just outstanding and is clearly my taste of the week!

Since dinner was a spontaneous event, I did not have my camera with me. Chefs Ortiz and Kerzner were kind enough to send me a photo and the recipe for this great dish. I need to get back and see what else these two fine chefs have up their sleeves!

Crispy egg

Crispy Egg
with Pork Gelatine

 

1
        
qt         water

2         
tsp        salt

2         
tbl         white vinegar

2                     
eggs
fresh as possible

4         
sheets  fuille de brick or thin spring roll wrappers

2         
eggs     beaten

1         
cup       flour

½        
c          gelatinized pork jus

¼        
c          veal demi glaze

1         
pinch    chopped parsley

Tt        
tt          salt pepper

1         
qt         canola oil in a 3 qt tail
pot heated to 375 degrees

 

                     
in
a 2qt
tail pot heat water, vinegar and salt to barely a simmer

                     
crack
eggs
into small ramekins to ease the sliding of eggs into water

                     
gently
slide
eggs into water

                     
poach
for
4-5 minutes

                     
using
a
slotted spoon carefully remove egg from water and submerge in cold ice
water

                     
remove
from
ice water when cooled and pat dry gently

                     
roll
up
the fuille the brick into one long log

                     
using
a
chefs knife cut thin ¼ inch strands crosswise so that when they unroll
you have long strands

                     
season
flour
with salt and pepper and gently roll the poached egg in the flour

                     
shake
off
excess flour and dip egg into the beaten egg

                     
unroll
the
strands of fuille de brick and lay them out on a work surface in small
flat
clusters

                     
place
the
egg that has been dipped in beaten egg onto one of the clusters and
wrap
the egg in the shreds

                     
quickly
and
carefully place into the fryer oil tailpot and fry until the shreds
stop
fizzling or barely fizzle

                     
remove
from
oil onto paper towels to drain

                     
season
with
salt pepper

                     
heat
demiglaze

                     
spoon
pork
gelatine into center of a bowl

                     
top
with
the warm egg (the heat from the egg with melt the gelatine)

                     
drizzle
with
demiglaze and sprinkle parsley onto the egg before serving

 

 

for pork
gelatine

 

8         
ea         pigs feet

3         
lbs        pork bones roasted until dark

12        
cloves   garlic whole

1         
tbl         cumin seeds

2         
tsp        dry oregano leaves

1         
ea         bayleaf

1         
ea         onion sliced

1         
tbl         black peppercorns

                       
Water
to barely cover

 

                     
combine
all
ingredients in a stock pot

                     
bring
to
a boil

                     
simmer
for
4 hours

                     
strain
through
a fine mesh strainer or chinois

                     
season
with
salt

                     
chill
until
gelatinized

                     
skim
off
the top layer of fat that will set at the top and discard

 

 

for the veal
demiglaze

 

1         
qt         veal stock

1         
tsp        tomato paste

½        
c          small diced white onion

¼
       
c          small diced celery

¼        
c          small diced carrot

1
         sprig    
thyme

1         
tsp        butter

 

                     
heat
butter
in a small 2 qt tail pot

                     
add
onions,
celery and carrot and cook medium heat until very caramelized

                     
add
tomato
paste and cook until the paste begins to caramelize

                     
add
thyme
and stock and cook until reduced to 3/4 cup

                     
strain
through
a fine mesh strainer or chinois and reserve

                     
when
ready
to use, heat in a sautee pan and reduce to desired consistency


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2 Responses to Taste of the Week – February 28th-March 6th: 677 Prime’s Crispy Egg and Pork

  1. Sorry to have missed you at the Media 2010 conference and at your dinner with Steve.
    The dish sounds like a lot of fun.
    My dinner at Wolff’s was not as good, even though I ordered the one dish that Ruth Fantasia found to be the best on the menu.
    http://www.timesunion.com/entertainment/restaurants/onereview.asp?RestaurantID=1669
    Next time I’ll stick to the weisswurst.

  2. It’s dishes like this that really pull me to trying out Prime. I just love the picture – it looks so inventive, definitely not the typical steakhouse type offering.

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