Madrid Fusión Day Two – The Mexican Avant Garde – Enrique Olvera

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Enrique Olvera cooks in Mexico at his restaurant Pujol located in Mexico City, but in many respects his approach to cooking is not dissimilar to his contemporary peers in Spain. His ingredients are different and the tradition from whence he derives his inspiration is different, but like many contemporary Spanish chefs, his inspiration comes from the deep rooted culinary traditions of his country. Olvera cooks with a modern sensibility but with a traditional palette. The title of his presentation was "The Mexican Avant Garde: Conceptual Dishes with Roots."  Olvera's approach does not so much use the techniques of the modern kitchen as to create a very personal cuisine based upon the ingredients and traditions of his homeland. His approach is to highlight special ingredients with references to traditions such as moles, but in new guises and presentations. Having eaten at his restaurant, Pujol, in 2006, I can attest to the skill and success of his dishes.

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Olvera presented three dishes, none of which were the ones highlighted by Madrid Fusion. Thanks to the courtesy of Chef Olvera, he has provided me with the recipes for the dishes that he did prepare and present.

SEA BASS “CEBICHE”
4 servings

Madrid Fusion 2009 by Docsconz - All Rights Reserved 918

INGREDIENTS

Sea bass fillet, medium dice            600 gr
Red onion (julienne)                30 gr
Serrano chilli (sliced)                30 gr
Cherry Tomato                    4 pieces
Coriander                    as needed
Grated lemon rind                as needed

Vinaigrette

Olive Oil                    150 ml
Lime juice                    50 ml
Salt                        as needed

Avocado purée

Avocado                    1 piece
Olive Oil                    as needed
Lime juice                    as needed
Salt                        as needed

Tortilla paper

Flour                        50 gr
Corn flour                    150 gr
Water                        75 ml
Salt                        as needed

Procedure

Vinaigrette

Put all the ingredients in a bowl and mix; check salt and reserve.

Cebiche

Cut the fish into cubes of 1 x 1 cm, put inside of a vacuum packed bag with the vinaigrette, into a moderate pressure, until the fish absorbs all the oil and lime juice; let it settle for 4 minutes. Open the bag and serve on a plate with the cherry tomato, the red onion and the serrano chilli.

Avocado purée

Put all the ingredients in a bowl and mix, pass through a chinoise. Reserve into a bottle.

Tortilla paper

Mix the ingredients in a bowl until getting a homogeneous paste, pass through a chinoise and put on a tray with silpat. Bake at 100ªC for 20 minutes. Reserve.

Assemble

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“ESQUITES” WITH MAYONNAISE GELATIN
4 servings

Madrid Fusion 2009 by Docsconz - All Rights Reserved 920

INGREDIENTS

Corn mixture

White corn                    6 pieces
Blue corn                    6 pieces                                
Pozole corn                    .500 kg
Epazote                      1 branch   
Finely sliced garlic                2 pieces
Finely sliced white onion                        1 piece
Butter                                                       50 gr

Mayonnaise gelatin

Egg yolk                    1     
Dijon Mustard                    ¼ tablespoon
Oil                        125 ml
Olive Oil                    125 ml
Lime juice                    10 ml
Salt                        as needed
Gelatin sheet                    10 gr
Water                         25 ml

White fresh grated cheese                  100 gr
Piquín pepper                               50 gr

Procedure

Corn mixture

•    Remove the kernals from each type of corn and keep separate.
•    Rinse the pozole corn, boil in cold salted water.
•    In a separate pot, boil blue corn kernels in cold salted water. Cook until both are totally softened, strain, rinse and reserve both.
•    Sautee the butter, garlic and onion in a tall saucepan. Add the white corn’ kernals, cover with cold water, add the epazote branch and “the olotes” (Corn’s cobs) of each one.  Cook about 1 hour. Remove “the olotes” and strain the rest in a chinoise. Keep the strained clear soup separately. Reserve the corn kernels separately. Mix the three types of corn (cold) and keep refrigerated.
•    To warm the mixture, heat in small saucepan with butter and a cup of water. Check salt.

Mayonnaise gelatin

•    In a bowl, soak a gelatin sheet until it gets soft in cold water about 5 minutes, set aside.
•    In a bowl, add the egg yolk with the Dijon mustard and salt. Whisk mixture ‘till fluffy adding oil slowly, end with lemon/lime juice, adjust seasoning. Strain gelatin liquid before adding to mayonnaise.
•    Slowly mix mayonnaise with gelatin liquid and refrigerate in a mold, 1.5 cm height, minimum of 3 hours. Reserve for garnish.

Epazote leaves                                                                                                                  

Heat oil, fry the fresh Mexican tea’s sheets between 2 slotted tablespoons of the same size ‘till crispy, dry on absorbent paper, reserve.

Assembly and Presentation

•    Warm the corn mixture with water, butter and seasoned with salt. Boil the corn broth and season with lemon juice and salt.
•    Cut the mayonnaise gelatin into rectangles of 7 cm length and 2 cm wide.
•    Sprinkle one side of the mayonnaise rectangle with piquin pepper. Use bamboo skewer for mayonnaise gelatin.
•    Serve “the esquites” in a tall (highball) glass; serve the white fresh grated cheese on top. Put on the mayonnaise skewer and a sheet of Mexican tea. Serve separately the seasoned esquite’s broth.

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“ESCAMOLES” WITH
SOIL, CORN BLINIS, GUACAMOLE

4 servings

Madrid Fusion 2009 by Docsconz - All Rights Reserved 921

INGREDIENTS

Escamoles

Escamoles (ant eggs)                100 gr
Garlic (chopped)                10 gr
Epazote                        15 gr
Salt                        as needed
Serrano pepper (brunoise)            10 gr

Soil

Dry chilies                    50 gr
Black achiote                    50 gr
Corn fungus                    100 gr

Corn Blinis

Corn flour                    50 gr
Wheat flour                    50 gr
Egg yolk                    1 piece
Water                        250 ml
Salt                        as needed

Guacamole

Avocado                    1 piece
Salt                        as needed
Lemon (lime)                        1 piece
Serrano pepper                    1 piece

Procedure

Escamoles

Cook the garlic in butter, add the escamoles and cook for 1 minute. Add the chili and the epazote. Season and reserve.

Soil

Dehydrate in oven at 90ªC, once dry, crush to powder and reserve.

Blinis
Put into the blender all the ingredients, mix until it comes to a homogeneous mixture. Put on a Teflon pan, cook and reserve.

Guacamole

Put all the ingredients into a “molcajete”, and grind with the mortar. Reserve

Assemble


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